Once again blogspot says I've reached a photo limit so text only - sorry
We slept till 8 and I was the most comfortable bed I've been on all summer. We put together our gear and had a nice breakfast on the terrace in the cool morning air.
We headed out and up on the last day of the trip without ceremony. There was a 7 hour walk ahead and that was our focus. Gravel road led to trail and we charged right up without any sense of fatigue or soreness from the previous day. We were "conditioned" by a daily dose of this. The GR is in good cool shade to the first pass and really to the second. But as we came closer to the coast damp coastal fog blew inland that wasn't cooling- rather a mugginess set in which made the going harder. There were old stone terraces everywhere and many stone ruins. The advocates of this route describe the dramatic views of the coast on the last day but we were cheated of these by the fog. We reached the last Col du Berceau having climbed 3840 ft for the day and headed downhill in the fog. This section is slippery gravel and potential trouble - poles helped me a lot. This level outa Plan du Lion where we had glimpses of road below. Now going down again, we found the trail more forgiving albeit steep. Finally hazy views of the harbor as we dropped below the coastal clouds. The air warmed and smelled of ocean, the vegetation changed and we had only negotiate the final descent on slippery trail ( I slipped once and Tammy almost went down a scary embankment) then streets alternating with narrow cobbled walkways between upscale hillside villas. An old path. Finally at the bottom we reached the harbor. 4990 ft of down in a day leaves the feet sore. We were done with our adventure. It was quite a ways to our hotel and we walked of course- it was flat / easy. We took a few stares from the upscale tourists / locals here on the riviera. The town was beautiful and the legendary ambiance everything that it said to be. A wonderful place to be!
If asked how I feel at the end of this experience, I guess bewildered is the best single word. I haven't a destination to walk too and I think being a simple tourist in Turkey will not only be wonderful but useful as a way to reflect. There is much to say perhaps and perhaps I'll save this for a final post.
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Wednesday, September 12, 2012
9/10 Col Turini to Sosphel
Once again blogspot says I've reached a photo limit so text only - sorry
Well rested, I debated our route. Return up hill to the rerouted GR52 or go downhill on the GR52a right at the Col and then climb a spur back to the 52 at the town Moulinet as originally planned?
We decided to stick to plan and quickly locating the GR52a climbed above the col and then began a nice descent in the trees on pleasent leaf padded trail. All along we caught glimpsesy of the GR52 across the valley and above us. There would be better views there, but we felt quite happy on our lush forest trail. We met some older gentleman from Germany hiking a loop over into Italy and they provided some info on what eventually became our plan for the day. We reached Moulinet in 3.5 hours and paused for supplies and lunch in the charming hillside town. We reconsidered our options to climb the big hillside spur in hot sun. Instead we we decided to stick with the GR52a . It's a tight choice - the guidebook times were 6 hours to Sosphel but I felt we could do it faster. We had 8000 + ft cardiopulmonary engines now and while there was climbing on the route it looked incidental. All psyched to go we spent 40 minutes trying to find our way out of town going around and around missing a turn marker high on a drainpipe that directs you down a narrow corridor and on your way. Frustrated we charged up the hill out of town and began speed walking the route along we graded road often in shade. We reached the Pas de la Capelette in under 2 hours. Here the signed route rakes a large loop to the west descending and swinging back down valley. But my I phone app showed a direct descent which we took- old markers showed it to be the GR at one time. Steepness defined the footing on protruding solid rock wasn't bad and offset largely the gravel slide it would otherwise be. Reconnected at the bottom onto the main route, steep switchback climbing in shaded heat led up a hillside of overgrown long abandoned terraces back to the ridge and a few slightly sketchy spots.
Finally onto a long plateau above the valley and Sospel was in sight.
And of course down then still through abandoned terraces and ruined stone structures - how long ? 50 years or a thousand - its a very old place.
Hot at the valley floor and beat from the descent of 2000ft, we had to climb again in shaded still heat. We pushed hard and finally reached a road that then did a nice traversing descent to Sosphel where we're arrived at 17:10 exactly 4.5 hours after leaving Moulinet and trashed by the effort. The town is old and beautiful on a river, but we plopped down on a terrace with gellat and cold water. We bought some more fluids and climbed - again up the hillside to our lodging in a private home. I sat in a chair a good 30 minutes before finding the energy and will to get my boots off. We dined with the Italian family enjoying terrific food and stimulating conversation. Sleep came easily...
Well rested, I debated our route. Return up hill to the rerouted GR52 or go downhill on the GR52a right at the Col and then climb a spur back to the 52 at the town Moulinet as originally planned?
We decided to stick to plan and quickly locating the GR52a climbed above the col and then began a nice descent in the trees on pleasent leaf padded trail. All along we caught glimpsesy of the GR52 across the valley and above us. There would be better views there, but we felt quite happy on our lush forest trail. We met some older gentleman from Germany hiking a loop over into Italy and they provided some info on what eventually became our plan for the day. We reached Moulinet in 3.5 hours and paused for supplies and lunch in the charming hillside town. We reconsidered our options to climb the big hillside spur in hot sun. Instead we we decided to stick with the GR52a . It's a tight choice - the guidebook times were 6 hours to Sosphel but I felt we could do it faster. We had 8000 + ft cardiopulmonary engines now and while there was climbing on the route it looked incidental. All psyched to go we spent 40 minutes trying to find our way out of town going around and around missing a turn marker high on a drainpipe that directs you down a narrow corridor and on your way. Frustrated we charged up the hill out of town and began speed walking the route along we graded road often in shade. We reached the Pas de la Capelette in under 2 hours. Here the signed route rakes a large loop to the west descending and swinging back down valley. But my I phone app showed a direct descent which we took- old markers showed it to be the GR at one time. Steepness defined the footing on protruding solid rock wasn't bad and offset largely the gravel slide it would otherwise be. Reconnected at the bottom onto the main route, steep switchback climbing in shaded heat led up a hillside of overgrown long abandoned terraces back to the ridge and a few slightly sketchy spots.
Finally onto a long plateau above the valley and Sospel was in sight.
And of course down then still through abandoned terraces and ruined stone structures - how long ? 50 years or a thousand - its a very old place.
Hot at the valley floor and beat from the descent of 2000ft, we had to climb again in shaded still heat. We pushed hard and finally reached a road that then did a nice traversing descent to Sosphel where we're arrived at 17:10 exactly 4.5 hours after leaving Moulinet and trashed by the effort. The town is old and beautiful on a river, but we plopped down on a terrace with gellat and cold water. We bought some more fluids and climbed - again up the hillside to our lodging in a private home. I sat in a chair a good 30 minutes before finding the energy and will to get my boots off. We dined with the Italian family enjoying terrific food and stimulating conversation. Sleep came easily...
9/7 Le Boreon to Refuge Nice
This was a big day period! How big? The numbers give you a sense of it - 11miles, 5955 ft up, and 3480 down.
So we were up early and after a worthless breakfast headed into the chill morning . After an inundated climbing piece up past some vigorous cascades the the body heat found a nice equilibrium.Then happily the route levels but for minor bumps and we zipped along for more then a mile this way. The woods thin as we followed the stream continuously and finally up again crossing it back and forth. There were cattle here too and workers improving the trail. There was a pass to reach and inevitably we reached a steep climb which returned ever better views up and down valley. Reaching an upper basin, a few more cows idyllically situated along a still alpine lake - Lac De Trevolpas at 2187 m. But rimmed by high was where was the pass? No worries, just follow the white over red markers - straight up the wall in ever tighter switchbacks! Nearing the col we caught up to another couple - Germans living in London. We stopped for one of those brief intense exchanges and immediately enjoyed them - we gave them a card and hope they write back. They had a different itinerary taking them higher yet over into Italy. We also encountered Chamois here and Tam grabbed so nice photos.
Feeling starved from the meager dinner / breakfast of the previous lodging we hustled down to La Madone de Fenestre / With Tam temporizing with mixed nuts. We discovered the times listed on the GR 52 to really underestimate our walking times - perhaps we are just weary, starved or both?! The descent was beautiful with views up and across the valley plus some cascades . The rock here is green with lichen - lichenated as I phrased it.
45 minutes before arriving I could smell food in the breeze and salivating we hustled on. We zeroed in on the refuge at La Madone and went straight in. We ordered omelets and devoured them along with the blueberry tarts afterward. Amazing the effect of needed calories.
But the day was only half done so off we went - crossing the cascade and turning back up valley. We chugged along steep seeming to become steeper. At one point it's a scramble up not hard really but Tam whacked her knee on the rock- ouch! The route is basically coarse rock and you pick your way hard to have a pace at all. I noted someone coming up quickly below and suddenly our speedy acquaintance of days before , Matthieu, arrived! Wow we thought he would be done, but it turns out he stayed at a friends during the bad weather. So we walked with him to the pass which is dramatic. It's a notch as wide as an oversize door and dramatic views into the next valley. It starts as a scramble down, you need your hands so I just threw my poles down for pickup. It's not difficult though the time to the refuge post at the col as 1 hour is absurd - more like 2! It's a route finding challenge even though we marked because of the extensive boulder hopping it's easy to miss a marker. Looking back you can't believe you did it! O
The scenery is beautiful including the valley bottom where horses grazed along the river. A left turn up river quickly reaches a dam which backs up a beautiful lake. Across it our refuge beautifully situated. We reach Refuge Nice after 10 hours less an hour for breaks.
Its a newer refuge - well thought out and organized. For 1€ you purchase a hot shower lasting 3 minutes - enough if you have everything ready before the coin goes in. Its rationed at 1 per person. Excellent adequate food was enjoyed with Mattheiu and some Italian gentleman who passed around a flask of Grappa after dinner.
So we were up early and after a worthless breakfast headed into the chill morning . After an inundated climbing piece up past some vigorous cascades the the body heat found a nice equilibrium.Then happily the route levels but for minor bumps and we zipped along for more then a mile this way. The woods thin as we followed the stream continuously and finally up again crossing it back and forth. There were cattle here too and workers improving the trail. There was a pass to reach and inevitably we reached a steep climb which returned ever better views up and down valley. Reaching an upper basin, a few more cows idyllically situated along a still alpine lake - Lac De Trevolpas at 2187 m. But rimmed by high was where was the pass? No worries, just follow the white over red markers - straight up the wall in ever tighter switchbacks! Nearing the col we caught up to another couple - Germans living in London. We stopped for one of those brief intense exchanges and immediately enjoyed them - we gave them a card and hope they write back. They had a different itinerary taking them higher yet over into Italy. We also encountered Chamois here and Tam grabbed so nice photos.
Feeling starved from the meager dinner / breakfast of the previous lodging we hustled down to La Madone de Fenestre / With Tam temporizing with mixed nuts. We discovered the times listed on the GR 52 to really underestimate our walking times - perhaps we are just weary, starved or both?! The descent was beautiful with views up and across the valley plus some cascades . The rock here is green with lichen - lichenated as I phrased it.
45 minutes before arriving I could smell food in the breeze and salivating we hustled on. We zeroed in on the refuge at La Madone and went straight in. We ordered omelets and devoured them along with the blueberry tarts afterward. Amazing the effect of needed calories.
But the day was only half done so off we went - crossing the cascade and turning back up valley. We chugged along steep seeming to become steeper. At one point it's a scramble up not hard really but Tam whacked her knee on the rock- ouch! The route is basically coarse rock and you pick your way hard to have a pace at all. I noted someone coming up quickly below and suddenly our speedy acquaintance of days before , Matthieu, arrived! Wow we thought he would be done, but it turns out he stayed at a friends during the bad weather. So we walked with him to the pass which is dramatic. It's a notch as wide as an oversize door and dramatic views into the next valley. It starts as a scramble down, you need your hands so I just threw my poles down for pickup. It's not difficult though the time to the refuge post at the col as 1 hour is absurd - more like 2! It's a route finding challenge even though we marked because of the extensive boulder hopping it's easy to miss a marker. Looking back you can't believe you did it! O
The scenery is beautiful including the valley bottom where horses grazed along the river. A left turn up river quickly reaches a dam which backs up a beautiful lake. Across it our refuge beautifully situated. We reach Refuge Nice after 10 hours less an hour for breaks.
Its a newer refuge - well thought out and organized. For 1€ you purchase a hot shower lasting 3 minutes - enough if you have everything ready before the coin goes in. Its rationed at 1 per person. Excellent adequate food was enjoyed with Mattheiu and some Italian gentleman who passed around a flask of Grappa after dinner.
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
9/9. Refuge V. Mervielles to Col Turini
Once again blogspot says I've reached a photo limit so text only - sorry
The skies cleared overnight, and I was glad to be up after our last night warehoused in a refuge dorm. Cleanup, basic breakfast eating butter for calories as usual, and goodbyes to our acquaintances of the day. The grass was covered in a thin frost - fall in the high country.
The route climbed southwest and winds up to a pass through a series of natural small lakes and larger reservoirs. The sun warm to our backs made it quite scenic and in no great rush we took our time. The guidebook describes this day as a brutal march loosing 8000 ft to reach Sosphel but I broke this up by going off route to a hotel at col Turini and I am very glad I did. Reaching the pass after gaining a 1000+ ft you begin the rocky descent out of this high basin. The hillsides of golden dry grass cover the treeless slopes far south into the distance. We picked our way along rattled by a trail runner blasting downhill. Clouds blew up behind us but nothing threatening, and the warm sun was offset by cool air. And so we went, mere specks on the vast hillsides.
Finally, at a pass we reached a cluster of bunkers on the hillside. After a bit of lunch we began a traverse along an old military road to reach another substantial bunker. Then we climbed the road in breeze- less hot sun toward and reaching the base of a towering fortress, L'Authion. The scars of fierce battle show on the sides of the building constructed in the 1700s but upgraded for WW2. You can't get inside but a walk around and the info panel are interesting and make a nice break.
From here the guidebook and my map - recently purchased- indicate staying left to continue south. BUT arriving here those GR markers are painted over and new ones have you turn right towards col Turini. There is a small non GR sign pointing left simply marked Sosphel ! This is a really big deal for someone planning a one day push to Sosphel!! So apparently the GR is recently rerouted but planning to go this direction anyway we followed it down a long ridge reaching dip which has two lodging possibilities - a Gite at Camp D'Argent and a restaurant hotel called L Yeti. I would of booked here had I known! The GR52 then makes a u turn traversing back a long way across the hillsides to reconnect to the original route. Many KMs addeded it seems! But we continued on to Col Turini 30 minutes further steep downhill and our booked hotel. It was operated by an interesting fellow who was all about the road races that happen here and in the winter 4000 people come for the Le Mans race crossing the col in the snow. Crazy! The hotel is thematic and he is a pinball champion of sorts too. Excellent home made food! The room average but luxurious after the refuges! A big thunderstorm entertained us.
The skies cleared overnight, and I was glad to be up after our last night warehoused in a refuge dorm. Cleanup, basic breakfast eating butter for calories as usual, and goodbyes to our acquaintances of the day. The grass was covered in a thin frost - fall in the high country.
The route climbed southwest and winds up to a pass through a series of natural small lakes and larger reservoirs. The sun warm to our backs made it quite scenic and in no great rush we took our time. The guidebook describes this day as a brutal march loosing 8000 ft to reach Sosphel but I broke this up by going off route to a hotel at col Turini and I am very glad I did. Reaching the pass after gaining a 1000+ ft you begin the rocky descent out of this high basin. The hillsides of golden dry grass cover the treeless slopes far south into the distance. We picked our way along rattled by a trail runner blasting downhill. Clouds blew up behind us but nothing threatening, and the warm sun was offset by cool air. And so we went, mere specks on the vast hillsides.
Finally, at a pass we reached a cluster of bunkers on the hillside. After a bit of lunch we began a traverse along an old military road to reach another substantial bunker. Then we climbed the road in breeze- less hot sun toward and reaching the base of a towering fortress, L'Authion. The scars of fierce battle show on the sides of the building constructed in the 1700s but upgraded for WW2. You can't get inside but a walk around and the info panel are interesting and make a nice break.
From here the guidebook and my map - recently purchased- indicate staying left to continue south. BUT arriving here those GR markers are painted over and new ones have you turn right towards col Turini. There is a small non GR sign pointing left simply marked Sosphel ! This is a really big deal for someone planning a one day push to Sosphel!! So apparently the GR is recently rerouted but planning to go this direction anyway we followed it down a long ridge reaching dip which has two lodging possibilities - a Gite at Camp D'Argent and a restaurant hotel called L Yeti. I would of booked here had I known! The GR52 then makes a u turn traversing back a long way across the hillsides to reconnect to the original route. Many KMs addeded it seems! But we continued on to Col Turini 30 minutes further steep downhill and our booked hotel. It was operated by an interesting fellow who was all about the road races that happen here and in the winter 4000 people come for the Le Mans race crossing the col in the snow. Crazy! The hotel is thematic and he is a pinball champion of sorts too. Excellent home made food! The room average but luxurious after the refuges! A big thunderstorm entertained us.
9/6 St Dalmas to Le Boreon
This too should be a tough long day as the GR5 is left and we begin the GR52 option. This trail is a high route through Mercantour National Park eventually ending at Menton on the Mediterranean just east if Nice where the GR5 ends.
The first day of this route is another long climb over a high pass with the subsequent descent and long road walk to the resort of Le Boreon. Here is a wolf sanctuary which we were interested in visiting but doubted we'd have the time or energy if we followed the route. So some research developed an alternative which we used. We followed the GR52A out of St Dalmas over the pass at la Colmiane then down to the valley of St Martin Vesubie. Reaching the outskirts of town the trail passes the gendarmerie, crosses the river and up at the main road you leave the GR52a with a left turn on the road heading up valley. This main traffic road quickly turns right but you continue straight on a route called Sentier Vallean de la Vesubie. It goes as tarmac road the at a junction is signed as gravel road / trail with yellow rectangle slashes as markers. It goes all the way to la Boreon and we did the whole walk in 4 hours. It was along a lush river in cool moist air - a pleasure! The was a washed out section with a closure warming sign that was nothing.
We had lunch on a restaurant Terrace then spent the afternoon at the Alpha wolf sanctuary. Very well spent time and we enjoyed hora of wolf viewing. . Generally they ignore people, but at one point a large one looked up at me and we locked eyes for what felt like a long time - amazing blue piercing eyes. We then viewed a film on the wolves which showed a night vision segment where the wolves attack a sheep herd and the defense out up by the guardian Patois dogs. Amazing footage which tied into much of what we'd personally seen in the last month.
Our Gite was basic although we did have a private room.
A basic meal of soup and pasta then to bed.
The first day of this route is another long climb over a high pass with the subsequent descent and long road walk to the resort of Le Boreon. Here is a wolf sanctuary which we were interested in visiting but doubted we'd have the time or energy if we followed the route. So some research developed an alternative which we used. We followed the GR52A out of St Dalmas over the pass at la Colmiane then down to the valley of St Martin Vesubie. Reaching the outskirts of town the trail passes the gendarmerie, crosses the river and up at the main road you leave the GR52a with a left turn on the road heading up valley. This main traffic road quickly turns right but you continue straight on a route called Sentier Vallean de la Vesubie. It goes as tarmac road the at a junction is signed as gravel road / trail with yellow rectangle slashes as markers. It goes all the way to la Boreon and we did the whole walk in 4 hours. It was along a lush river in cool moist air - a pleasure! The was a washed out section with a closure warming sign that was nothing.
We had lunch on a restaurant Terrace then spent the afternoon at the Alpha wolf sanctuary. Very well spent time and we enjoyed hora of wolf viewing. . Generally they ignore people, but at one point a large one looked up at me and we locked eyes for what felt like a long time - amazing blue piercing eyes. We then viewed a film on the wolves which showed a night vision segment where the wolves attack a sheep herd and the defense out up by the guardian Patois dogs. Amazing footage which tied into much of what we'd personally seen in the last month.
Our Gite was basic although we did have a private room.
A basic meal of soup and pasta then to bed.
9/5 Refuge Longon to St Dalmas
I admit I hadn't studied this day too closely - no big mountain passes to cross, how hard could it be? As it turns out with 16+ miles to cover - quite hard!
An additional factor was my poor sleep overnight. While there were plentiful blankets, the place was cold - even more so when someone opened the door for fresh air overnight.
The morning looked grey but on closer examination there were breaks in the clouds. So after more buttery hot chocolate we set out. There were some donkeys here that followed us as escourts until we began to go downhill. The drop was sudden and steep along a cascading stream gushing down its water smoothed channel. The rock was a deep vermillion slate split so fine as to appear like velvet in places. Immediately back into Larche forest the descent moderates as a long traverse interrupted by a small grouping of stone cabins utilizing the same red rock. It was here thatTammy ahead went off route amidst the braid of lanes and so in hustling to catch up we.became separated and an angst filled 20 minutes was resolved by backtracking and good old fashioned hollering.
Hands joined we continued now gravel road then on path cutting road switchbacks to reach the village of Roure. You could imagine a more picturesque place of old stone buildings clinging to the hillside. There is even a lodging here where we stopped after 2.5 hours for a quick hot chocolate. The rooftops of a larger town St Sauveur sur Tinee were visible just directly below. The trail from town aggressively switchbacks down to it and we reached it in about an hour. We quickly found a patisserie, bought lunch supplies and in the square just outside got down to some food along with a shared bottle of peach ice tea.
Refreshed, we started back up the other side of the valley to the town of Rimplas. We charged up the road and reached the town in an hour and fifteen minutes. Here I didn't realize there was another down segment and turning the corner the heat came up, the vegetation became arid and our spirits dropped as we realized we had a good ways yet to go. Still, we cranked the distance out first down to a stream crossing on a narrow barely visible arched bridge almost hidden by the vegetation. Then up a aggressively on
a stone paved surface of impressive vintage. Up out of the valley, fruit laden orchards are passed and we paused a moment for blackberry snacks. Later some other walkers showed us ripe mirrebelle which we ate as we walked. We reached St Dalmas very tired a popped into the Proxi grocery for supplies. At checkout a man ahead is us overheard our conversation and asked if we were Americans staying at the Grand Chalet - which we were. It turns out he was our proprietor, and asked if we wanted a lift - it was 1 km by trail or 2 km by car. It was a no brainer - we were suddenly done for the day at our comfortable lodging where others from the previous nights refuge arrived as well. Fabulous food here, wifi, - they even machined our laundry!!! A great ending to a long tough day.
An additional factor was my poor sleep overnight. While there were plentiful blankets, the place was cold - even more so when someone opened the door for fresh air overnight.
The morning looked grey but on closer examination there were breaks in the clouds. So after more buttery hot chocolate we set out. There were some donkeys here that followed us as escourts until we began to go downhill. The drop was sudden and steep along a cascading stream gushing down its water smoothed channel. The rock was a deep vermillion slate split so fine as to appear like velvet in places. Immediately back into Larche forest the descent moderates as a long traverse interrupted by a small grouping of stone cabins utilizing the same red rock. It was here thatTammy ahead went off route amidst the braid of lanes and so in hustling to catch up we.became separated and an angst filled 20 minutes was resolved by backtracking and good old fashioned hollering.
Hands joined we continued now gravel road then on path cutting road switchbacks to reach the village of Roure. You could imagine a more picturesque place of old stone buildings clinging to the hillside. There is even a lodging here where we stopped after 2.5 hours for a quick hot chocolate. The rooftops of a larger town St Sauveur sur Tinee were visible just directly below. The trail from town aggressively switchbacks down to it and we reached it in about an hour. We quickly found a patisserie, bought lunch supplies and in the square just outside got down to some food along with a shared bottle of peach ice tea.
Refreshed, we started back up the other side of the valley to the town of Rimplas. We charged up the road and reached the town in an hour and fifteen minutes. Here I didn't realize there was another down segment and turning the corner the heat came up, the vegetation became arid and our spirits dropped as we realized we had a good ways yet to go. Still, we cranked the distance out first down to a stream crossing on a narrow barely visible arched bridge almost hidden by the vegetation. Then up a aggressively on
a stone paved surface of impressive vintage. Up out of the valley, fruit laden orchards are passed and we paused a moment for blackberry snacks. Later some other walkers showed us ripe mirrebelle which we ate as we walked. We reached St Dalmas very tired a popped into the Proxi grocery for supplies. At checkout a man ahead is us overheard our conversation and asked if we were Americans staying at the Grand Chalet - which we were. It turns out he was our proprietor, and asked if we wanted a lift - it was 1 km by trail or 2 km by car. It was a no brainer - we were suddenly done for the day at our comfortable lodging where others from the previous nights refuge arrived as well. Fabulous food here, wifi, - they even machined our laundry!!! A great ending to a long tough day.
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