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So we were up early and after a worthless breakfast headed into the chill morning . After an inundated climbing piece up past some vigorous cascades the the body heat found a nice equilibrium.Then happily the route levels but for minor bumps and we zipped along for more then a mile this way. The woods thin as we followed the stream continuously and finally up again crossing it back and forth. There were cattle here too and workers improving the trail. There was a pass to reach and inevitably we reached a steep climb which returned ever better views up and down valley. Reaching an upper basin, a few more cows idyllically situated along a still alpine lake - Lac De Trevolpas at 2187 m. But rimmed by high was where was the pass? No worries, just follow the white over red markers - straight up the wall in ever tighter switchbacks! Nearing the col we caught up to another couple - Germans living in London. We stopped for one of those brief intense exchanges and immediately enjoyed them - we gave them a card and hope they write back. They had a different itinerary taking them higher yet over into Italy. We also encountered Chamois here and Tam grabbed so nice photos.
Feeling starved from the meager dinner / breakfast of the previous lodging we hustled down to La Madone de Fenestre / With Tam temporizing with mixed nuts. We discovered the times listed on the GR 52 to really underestimate our walking times - perhaps we are just weary, starved or both?! The descent was beautiful with views up and across the valley plus some cascades . The rock here is green with lichen - lichenated as I phrased it.
45 minutes before arriving I could smell food in the breeze and salivating we hustled on. We zeroed in on the refuge at La Madone and went straight in. We ordered omelets and devoured them along with the blueberry tarts afterward. Amazing the effect of needed calories.
But the day was only half done so off we went - crossing the cascade and turning back up valley. We chugged along steep seeming to become steeper. At one point it's a scramble up not hard really but Tam whacked her knee on the rock- ouch! The route is basically coarse rock and you pick your way hard to have a pace at all. I noted someone coming up quickly below and suddenly our speedy acquaintance of days before , Matthieu, arrived! Wow we thought he would be done, but it turns out he stayed at a friends during the bad weather. So we walked with him to the pass which is dramatic. It's a notch as wide as an oversize door and dramatic views into the next valley. It starts as a scramble down, you need your hands so I just threw my poles down for pickup. It's not difficult though the time to the refuge post at the col as 1 hour is absurd - more like 2! It's a route finding challenge even though we marked because of the extensive boulder hopping it's easy to miss a marker. Looking back you can't believe you did it! O
The scenery is beautiful including the valley bottom where horses grazed along the river. A left turn up river quickly reaches a dam which backs up a beautiful lake. Across it our refuge beautifully situated. We reach Refuge Nice after 10 hours less an hour for breaks.
Its a newer refuge - well thought out and organized. For 1€ you purchase a hot shower lasting 3 minutes - enough if you have everything ready before the coin goes in. Its rationed at 1 per person. Excellent adequate food was enjoyed with Mattheiu and some Italian gentleman who passed around a flask of Grappa after dinner.
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