9/4 Roya to Refuge Longon.

The forecast was for a better day particularly in the AM with rain later. This is a hard day with a high crossing where in recent days snow was a factor. It was raining lightly still when we awoke and still was we left around 08:20. But magically it slowed to a mist and sunbreaks were seen around but never on us. We crossed the bridge out of Roya and began the steep switchbacks up hill affording a nice look back to Roya. Then we claimed along a stream eventually seeing a beautiful cascade from above. Then upwards through the rocks across the steam into the lower treeless basin. Then we came upon a junction at a shepherds shelter - there was much activity here and there were the Patouis dos we'd heard about - at least 4 and one was huge! The sheep were corralled and the dogs ignored us. The route is well marked though the trail isn't obvious so we steered clear of the sheep across grassy slopes with one dog flanking us below. We crossed a rise then a steam and suddenly there was the dog staring at us. We stopped a and I smiled / made low key gestures and slowly moved away. He continued to follow us in an unnerving manner until passing a sheep carcass, where he stopped and became busy munching on it.
We began a steep switch backing climb to the upper basin - gained it then climbed for the pass where the wind and clouds were roaring through. My hands were numb before the pass and reaching it, I was not dressed for this level of cold. But the pass- Col Crousette @ 8100 ft is not the end! The GR continues to traverse climb the south side of Mt Mounier in wind and low viability fog with the occasional white/red markers for reassurance gaining another 300ft! In a word - it was BAD! But even so we exchanged stories with an elderly couple who the day before had to cross this area in freezing rain on their hands and knees to avoid being blown off the mountain. You dont come here without a level of grit and determination..... At the final crest we were exhausted although a "gel shot" had really helped - even my hands seemed warmer! There was a memorial to a French general here and then the descent begins as the fog and wins tapered. It's a long exposed but well makes route and as the clouds Rhines the scenery was beautiful. Deeper in the valley the winds abated and the going much more pleasant. The route pased above the village of Vignols where interesting rock formation had been hollowed and show sign of habitation or usage. The trail began to climb again switchback again exhaustingly reaching the Ports of Longon - the entrance to the grassy valley where our refuge sits. The refuge was reached in 30 minutes with the rain now steady. The refuge is in a long building at one end while the other is a vacherie where milk, butter and cheese are produced. A fire was on inside and we ordered a hot chocolate - it was whole milk with butter on top - I'm spoiled now! They had hot showers too. Dinner was huge trays of gratin potatoes with smoked bacon. The proprietor had his whole family here 3 older kids and a 4 month old. Between them, the cows and us he was a busy fellow!
I slept in my fleece with two wool blankets and still found the air chill.