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Wednesday, September 12, 2012

9/10 Col Turini to Sosphel

Once again blogspot says I've reached a photo limit so text only - sorry

Well rested, I debated our route. Return up hill to the rerouted GR52 or go downhill on the GR52a right at the Col and then climb a spur back to the 52 at the town Moulinet as originally planned?
We decided to stick to plan and quickly locating the GR52a climbed above the col and then began a nice descent in the trees on pleasent leaf padded trail. All along we caught glimpsesy of the GR52 across the valley and above us. There would be better views there, but we felt quite happy on our lush forest trail. We met some older gentleman from Germany hiking a loop over into Italy and they provided some info on what eventually became our plan for the day. We reached Moulinet in 3.5 hours and paused for supplies and lunch in the charming hillside town. We reconsidered our options to climb the big hillside spur in hot sun. Instead we we decided to stick with the GR52a . It's a tight choice - the guidebook times were 6 hours to Sosphel but I felt we could do it faster. We had 8000 + ft cardiopulmonary engines now and while there was climbing on the route it looked incidental. All psyched to go we spent 40 minutes trying to find our way out of town going around and around missing a turn marker high on a drainpipe that directs you down a narrow corridor and on your way. Frustrated we charged up the hill out of town and began speed walking the route along we graded road often in shade. We reached the Pas de la Capelette in under 2 hours. Here the signed route rakes a large loop to the west descending and swinging back down valley. But my I phone app showed a direct descent which we took- old markers showed it to be the GR at one time. Steepness defined the footing on protruding solid rock wasn't bad and offset largely the gravel slide it would otherwise be. Reconnected at the bottom onto the main route, steep switchback climbing in shaded heat led up a hillside of overgrown long abandoned terraces back to the ridge and a few slightly sketchy spots.
Finally onto a long plateau above the valley and Sospel was in sight.
And of course down then still through abandoned terraces and ruined stone structures - how long ? 50 years or a thousand - its a very old place.
Hot at the valley floor and beat from the descent of 2000ft, we had to climb again in shaded still heat. We pushed hard and finally reached a road that then did a nice traversing descent to Sosphel where we're arrived at 17:10 exactly 4.5 hours after leaving Moulinet and trashed by the effort. The town is old and beautiful on a river, but we plopped down on a terrace with gellat and cold water. We bought some more fluids and climbed - again up the hillside to our lodging in a private home. I sat in a chair a good 30 minutes before finding the energy and will to get my boots off. We dined with the Italian family enjoying terrific food and stimulating conversation. Sleep came easily...

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