8/31 Larche to Bouzieyas

We were lucky weather wise yesterday and looking out the window when we awoke perhaps we would be again - blue sky! I wanted to get going early - high col and some mileage which the book suggested was 7-8 hours. We got away by 8:15. Basically it's a road walk out of Larche poorly marked at the beginning with a marked right turn then an unmarked left between some buildings - NOT over the bridge which becons straight ahead! The gravel road leads to the campground then onto tarmac. There is a no go sign which tries to move you onto the gravel path left. But we just stayed on the Tarmac and shortly the GR comes there anyway. It took more then an hour to reach the valley entry to Mercantour National Park and there were many people here at the parking lot. The walk up the valley is gradually incline and very beautiful. The hillsides are full of Marmotte with admonishing signs not to feed them. The trail parallels the stream which add to the overall beauty. Finally the trail gets down to business an climbs at an ever steepening pace sometimes with steps. Views back were great as well.Finally the route steepens further following a rugged path along the stream to reach a beautiful alpine lake - Lac Du Lauzanier. We climbed on stopping to catch photos as the scene changed and finally pushed in somme rocks for a lunch break at 11:30. The lodging breakfasts are never enough for this level of exertion.
Then on we continued as the cold wind picked up, dark clouds gathered and the going became tougher - yet sun breaks still gave me something to do with the camera when I paused to breathe. My hands were numb when I reached the pass - Pas de la Cavale @ 2671m (8763 ft) and I'd pulled my buff over my face as cold protection. Tammy who had charged ahead was busy writing a note for the Dutchies when I arrived. And after a few photos we headed down the wind ripping across the this pass with temperatures 3C at best. A huge basin lay below us surrounded by churning clouds ever blacker. Stepping down the wind instantly stopped and the air warmed - amazing what a difference a few feet can make! The tight narrow switchbacks down are scary in a few spots - one where I had to sit down to feel safe to get down a step with a sheer drop-off. I would not imagine trying this in bad weather / snow!
Eventually the route is just a rocky trail which droops into the basin which features a couple small lakes and craters called dolimes. It is a long way down to a river crossing and a shelter where the trail turns up hill once again. An old stone building which is slowly falling into an adjacent eroded ravine is passed just before it crosses the ravine and steeply then climbs for the Col des Fourches @ 2261m ( ~7400 ft). While we began this climb the clouds nearby began dumping rain which edged ever closer. We were racing up the hill trying to beat the rain - exhausting. We reached the Col which is guarded by WW2 bunkers and began the descent immediately. An surreal abandoned military village is entered and here the snow began to fall! It was exciting! We descended the route - obviously an old road to the village crossing the the modern road which goes to the col Bonette - one of the highest road passes in Europe. The Tour D France occasionally has crossed this road and looking at it this seems inconceivable .
We reached the cluster of building called Bouzieyas and checked into lodging. The proprietor was very personable, speaking good English , and congratulatory of our achievement. He has suppliers for Trekkers as well such as stove fuel and food. We had dinner with a group which included several Swiss walkers. Outside the clouds cleared to reveal snow covered peaks ....