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Tuesday, September 11, 2012

9/9. Refuge V. Mervielles to Col Turini

Once again blogspot says I've reached a photo limit so text only - sorry

The skies cleared overnight, and I was glad to be up after our last night warehoused in a refuge dorm. Cleanup, basic breakfast eating butter for calories as usual, and goodbyes to our acquaintances of the day. The grass was covered in a thin frost - fall in the high country.
The route climbed southwest and winds up to a pass through a series of natural small lakes and larger reservoirs. The sun warm to our backs made it quite scenic and in no great rush we took our time. The guidebook describes this day as a brutal march loosing 8000 ft to reach Sosphel but I broke this up by going off route to a hotel at col Turini and I am very glad I did. Reaching the pass after gaining a 1000+ ft you begin the rocky descent out of this high basin. The hillsides of golden dry grass cover the treeless slopes far south into the distance. We picked our way along rattled by a trail runner blasting downhill. Clouds blew up behind us but nothing threatening, and the warm sun was offset by cool air. And so we went, mere specks on the vast hillsides.
Finally, at a pass we reached a cluster of bunkers on the hillside. After a bit of lunch we began a traverse along an old military road to reach another substantial bunker. Then we climbed the road in breeze- less hot sun toward and reaching the base of a towering fortress, L'Authion. The scars of fierce battle show on the sides of the building constructed in the 1700s but upgraded for WW2. You can't get inside but a walk around and the info panel are interesting and make a nice break.
From here the guidebook and my map - recently purchased- indicate staying left to continue south. BUT arriving here those GR markers are painted over and new ones have you turn right towards col Turini. There is a small non GR sign pointing left simply marked Sosphel ! This is a really big deal for someone planning a one day push to Sosphel!! So apparently the GR is recently rerouted but planning to go this direction anyway we followed it down a long ridge reaching dip which has two lodging possibilities - a Gite at Camp D'Argent and a restaurant hotel called L Yeti. I would of booked here had I known! The GR52 then makes a u turn traversing back a long way across the hillsides to reconnect to the original route. Many KMs addeded it seems! But we continued on to Col Turini 30 minutes further steep downhill and our booked hotel. It was operated by an interesting fellow who was all about the road races that happen here and in the winter 4000 people come for the Le Mans race crossing the col in the snow. Crazy! The hotel is thematic and he is a pinball champion of sorts too. Excellent home made food! The room average but luxurious after the refuges! A big thunderstorm entertained us.

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