8/29 Ceillac to Fouillouse

I'd been somewhat dreading this day because of the mileage - ~32km - close to 20 miles with a big pass as well. The lodge had a good breakfast selection which always fuels my walk and we were out the door a late close to 8:40. The sun was just entering the valley as we walked to the hill and without warmup began a steep ascent. All you can do is pace yourself to what's reasonable till your body gets into the rhythm. But you just keep moving up the switchbacks. Finally we approached the torrent feeding the waterfall and the cool moist air made the upward progress easier. Finally the steam is crossed as we entered the basin with a lake.
Deep blue with the basin walls as backdrop, breezes rippled the surface which otherwise would have been a great source of reflection hence its name Lac Mirror.
Departing the lake we started down a side trail with yellow marks quickly realizing it wasn't the GR we backtracked and found it going downhill a bit before climbing out of the basin towards a ski lift. Later the yellow marked route appeared and connected - could have used it after all!
Cresting the ski area a new basin appeared quite beautiful. Behind us though in the distance toward Briancon a massive thunderhead with black rain below dominated and occasional thunder even so far away was amazing. We had some local black clouded but they didn't do much and drifted off. But fired up, we kept moving reaching the lake and chapel at Lake Anne where my day-hikers lingered. We admired the beautiful waters of blue changing continuously with the clouds and finally sat on rocks for lunch in sight of the lake well below. After 20 minutes we continued on and began the final advent to the pass up steep narrow switchbacks which were at times quite exposed with the slope fall off. No snow but an ice axe at least would have been needed had there been. Finally having gained 3500ft the pass sits at 8850 ft and having left a quick note for our Dutch friends down we went. The way down is on crumbly slippery rock - Tammy had he'd poles out which says a lot. A bit sketchy at times till reaching the grassy basin. But exiting the basin there is a very washed our section about 20 ft of which is a bit anxiety provoking - exposed and dangerous. Right after this are some catchment pans hewn from rock - no water running. We continues down gassy slopes studded with I btw resting boulders and Marmot holes which Tammy paused to study.
Finally reaching the valley edge thre route splits . We filled the direction to La Barage. It is sketchy, narrow and exposed at the beginning the settles. Into a beautiful scenic descent with spectacular views up/ down and across the valley into other basins. It washot when we reached the road. The water at La Barge had a non controlle sign with a cup red crossed. We'd been counting on this but still had some so on we went down hill along the road but up wind and a cooling wind at that.a least 6 miles of road walking it was easy with beautiful larch trees, the river running hard and blue and dark clouds with thunder and finally rain half way down the valley. The rain was cool and refreshing. We walked on a marked section where there GR tries to go off road - really a waste of time - better on the little traveled road. The old buildings at St Antoine were photo worthy and passed it the spectacular arch bridge over the chasm at Pont du Chatelet comes into view. Passing some bunkers guarding the area eventually the bridge is crossed. There are great views of rhe river up and down valley! Following the road through a tunnel the GR departs it once again we found ourselves climbing steeply and unrelentingly. We had no energy for this but soldiered on gaining around 800 painful feet. Though my legs were not sore I felt metabolically trashed when we reached our rustic lodging. We loved the place With a spacious room and very hot showers. The meal of the night was pot roast and vegetables in huge quantity exceeding anything we'd had foronths. And do good as well with a glass of wine we were set!