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Wednesday, August 22, 2012

8/21 Pralognan to Refuge Peclet Polsete

We slept in - finally up at 9. We invented some things to do such as returning to the gear shops where I had bought a new pair of pants the day before - the other ones kept trying to slide off! But I decided to get a better shirt for heat with long sleeves for sun. Tammy found a lightweight fleece for cheap allowing her to send home the heavy one. And to send it home we needed a box, so next door to the Poste for that. Then we discovered the street fair was on so we dawdled but did buy fruit for lunch- peaches, and amazing grapes. We finally checked out at then messed around with a bit more dawdling and we ran into the French girls who reported that they didn't enjoy the refuge at Col de Vanoise which we'd passed the afternoon before- they made everyone leave by 8 am.
Really I like Pralognan. It is touristy but was more of a pastoral town until not so long ago. So there remains a sense of an authentic mountain village but with gear shops and an assortment of restaurants. The surrounding hiking options are superb - I would go back.
With a cold 1.5 liter of water in hand, we found the GR up through a canpground and followed it left of a rushing stream climbing reasonably in shade until finally crossing the stream and continuing up more in sun. Fortunately the breezes were good as we left the trees as the views opened up the hazy valley. We passes a little collection of old stone chalets some remodeled and a photo exhibition outside the buildings. There was a terrace restaurant but is seemed too early to eat so we kept on beside the stream where many people lounged in the sun. The back across the stream where woods are reached we walked asphalt transitioning to gravel back across the stream and up finally reaching another Refuge Roche de la Peche. Here we stopped had our sandwiches and bought drinks/ blueberry tartes. Pricey. The views above to the glaciers and up valley were superb. 3 pm and 4 miles / 2000 ft to go we finally got moving up the valley which became more picturesque with each step as the moving clouds
continuously changed the landscape. The effort of the climb was mitigated by the clouds and cool breezes. High up in the thinning green was the sound of cow bells. Around a corner and down the herd came into view at the portable milking station. The herdsman here have portable stations they pull up into the pastures for the summer and then come up daily to milk the herd. Some of the little stone buildings we've come across in the high country are cheese factories and we passed one where the cheese is sold directly. The cheese .....it's so excellent I fear we are ruined on returning home.... Becoming increasingly stark, the pass draws closer when suddenly to the right beneath Mt Peclet the Refuge Peclet Polsete appears and in 5 minutes we were there. A newer and architecturally appealing structure it was one of the best we'd encountered and was well managed. Showers cost 2 € for 6 minutes at a "bracing " temperature. I wore my clothes in as a way to launder them - a clothesline out back. There were our Swiss friends of several days as well as a Scottish couple who were quite adventurous and fun to talk with. At dinner we sat with a man who is part of the French national ski team I believe as an instructor - he and his wife were also great to speak with. Many blog cards handed out here. Sleep was Ok - enough at 6 hours. Ear plugs a critical equipment in the dorms.

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