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Friday, August 17, 2012

8/15 Plan de la Lai to Valezan.

Another long day ahead. I had wanted to go to Refuge de Balme, but it was closed for the season being completely remodeled. Landry was too far so I booked a place at Auberge de Valezan. Another cloudless start after a good night sleep in the near empty refuge. The morning felt warm out the door and the light beautiful.. We said goodby to the bikers and headed up the road. The route follows road gradually up in a perfect warmup. The sublime green landscape featuring Beaufort cattle bells clanging and Mont Blanc in the background capped with a blowing lenticular. Eventually a corner is turned with a little descent and the scene is replaced with that of Lac Roseland glimpsed below in a the surrounding huge green basin. We descended thankfully not all the way down to the valley floor - a side trail traverses the hillside to eventually each the road coming up, populated with clusters of hikers of all sorts. We left a note for our Dutch friends under a stone where this side trail took off. Wonder where they are. Reaching the road the tril cuts across and climbs steeply along a gully with shady bushes and the welcome cooling dampness of the gushing stream. Waterfalls here. Up on road again the climbing continues in hot sun mitigated by cool breezes. The views improve as our energy waned. The refuge meager breakfasts don't cut it when there is serious up to do and 4 hours after we left we sat down out of gas for a bite in a cool breeze & a vast view. The hikers streamed upwards. Finally pack on and up once again my legs still felt like cement but you just will yourself on - first through a pretty boulder field the harder switchbacks finally reaching the high spot - col Bresson - @ 8100ft. Fabulous views here down valley, but also of the spire behind refuge Presset where all the hikers headed. Off trail and with a long ways down to go we didn't visit - after a brief rest we started down. The upper valley is beautiful with a stream which eventually cooled Tammy's feet. Down down down - eventually reaching construction at the Chalet de Balme. Still a long way to go now on gravel road. The breeze held as the heat soared to 32C - 90f! Water became a concern running out 2 hours from the destination. Cattle here precluded using the main stream - but the GR left the road an a grassy traverse end shortly passed a rental chalet - unoccupied. I tried an outside hose and was rewarded with cool water which I filled a liter into our bag and did a gulp. I may have been cistern water needing treatment so kept it unless critically necessary. About 30 minutes later an occupied chalet with a kind gentleman gave up good water . Down down down. My toes burned and we rounds onto south facing slopes under irrigation in places , the grass dry and some smells of sage. The water consumed the heat must have neared 100F. We reached Velazan and our lodging after 4 hours and 4200 ft of descent. I drank during the evening 4 liters of fluid. The sky thickened with heavy moisture and clouds but the anticipated storm never came. Our hand washed clothes dried in an hour. We stay next to a delightful Swiss party of 3 out for five days going the opposite direction. Victor, his father Serge?and is lively cute 5 year old daughter Margot? were fun to visit with at meals and we hope they have a safe journey.

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