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Wednesday, August 22, 2012

8/22 Refuge Peclet Polset to Fourneaux

Slept so so and arose at 06:30 - I noted clouds so grabbed the camera and headed out. The Baxters were up and having breakfast as we're the Swiss wanting to go early so as to catch a 16:30 train in Modane where we were headed. A climbing group apparently left at 04:30 to take on the mountain and glacier above us. There were significant clouds over the opposing mountains down valley and as I watch a cloudburst with thunder ensued. But no rain for us as it all moved away. The day looked good. I asked for an omelet for breakfast and they produced one - a treat over the typical bread / croissant butter and spread. We loaded up and left by 08:10. The air was cool and the up continues through the increasingly barren rocks. Omelet energized I felt good! Great views of the refuge looking back down the valley. About half way to the pass a rescue helicopter arrived above on the glacier and made the flaring sound we'd heard and seen accompanying rescuers. The helicopter moved off and was stationary for quite a long time then left. It returned sometime later and after unseen activity departed. One can only presume the climbing group had problems but I guess we will never know.
We continued moving a arrived at a flat area where perhaps a hundred cairns had been built , some quite artistic! So we put one together too - why not! The final part before the col is very steep and exposed with somewhat slippery gravel. Perhaps the sketchiest spot we'd been on to date. This area had no snow but had it been present at least an ice axe would have been needed. The col was magnificent with views forward and back. Below were Bouqutin males in seasonal combat on a large boulder. Some ways off we tried to photograph them. It was about 10 when we started down the steep gravel slopes which eventually gave way to a grassy basin brown in the heat and peppered with attractive boulders. There was a nearby lake but we didn't visit. We just parked on a boulder and enjoyed the delicious peaches now in the markets. Then downward more and we passed a small refuge while waterfalls were visible on the facing wall of the basin. I noticed something odd about one of them - there was signifigence grey debris gushing down . I'd seen such events at Mt Rainier in the US where there is volcanic ash at times in the streams but this was not a volcano. My best guess was a glacial lake may have eroded it banks and discharged all the stores silts. Hard to know.
We enjoyed beautiful views of converging waterfalls as we crossed the boundary leaving Vanoise park for the last time. We continue on a traverse through trees before descending again. The heat built the lower we went. We arrived in Polset and stopped at a restaurant where we made our sandwiches and I ordered a nice salad as well as drinks and finally ice cream. Well fed we headed down and the drop from here to Modane is is about 2500 foot numbing feet in about 3 miles. Ouch. In the shade the temperature was 38C. But we took breaks several times and finally arrived in Modane where we lost and found the GR a couple times. The GR5 which we re aquired below Polset slits above Modane - one branch goes to it while the other goes to the nearby town of Fourneaux where we headed. We picked up fruit and sandwich supplies then went to our hotel arriving at 16:15. It was closed till 17:09 so we sat. In the shade and relaxed. Finally in our room we did our daily cleaning ritual . Tammy decided against dinner - I wanted it but waited too long. A spectacular intense thunderstorm blew through and we had perfect seats to watch.

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