8/8 Gorges des Tines to Refuge de Moëde-Anterne

We taxied as planned back to the gorge parking area - 10€ & a handshake and we were off. Down the gravel road and across the bridge we began to climb on the GR through the gorge. There are 3 metal ladders but with side rails to hold safe going. The elevation gained was then lost as the route descends back to the river then crosses it in an area near Sixt and where you would join the GR if you stayed in Sixt. The route follows gravel road staying left of the river finally climbing again. The route reaches asphalt road and follows it across a one lane bridge where traffic drama between a bus going down and cars up played out. Over the bridge the GR turns quickly uphill and steeply climbs cutting across the road switchbacks . The waterfall Cascade du Rouget was running hard and passing it the GR steepens a bit more finally reaching a chalet terrace at Le Lignon. We passed here in the cool shade foe water and blueberry tarts. Onwards and steeper yet amidst the day hiking hordes the trail grinds out elevation passing another waterfall turning and up yet higher. Above the tree line we would pause in the cool shade when possible as the route traverses climbing continuously beneath the cliffs of the Pointe de Sales. We passed groups trekking with donkeys which carried their gear and occasionally a child.
From far below we had seen the specks of power lines above and now we crossed below and ascended above these as the scenery opens out into green meadows bordered by cliffs up and down. Then a short descent to a basin and through rocks to a cold stream through a flat grassy spot family's sat about enjoying the day. Tammy soaked her feet awhile then we moved on a little up then a little down into another basin where we came to at refuge Alfred Wills where we stopped for lunch - omelets and ice tea. We watch kids and elderly stream up the hill above us climbing the 500 ft to the col where we headed next. The climb steep but the views improved with each step. As we reached the top - it wasn't! Still more to go further back over the hill where finally another basin is revealed with a stunning blue lake floated amidst the green and wildflowers - dark cliffs a far backdrop while a sheep flock bells and bleets on the opposite wall. We crossed the basin and climbed steeply at first then reasonably as the Col Anterne came into view. We'd gains more then 4500 ft to reach here. Many people here and arriving the reason was obvious- the cloud free Mont Blanc massif was in full view with the foreground our destination, Refuge de Moëde-Anterne, sitting in the green 800 ft below. After a pause to take this view in, we descended and checked in to our second refuge experience. The place was full this night and every night days on- reservations needed here. Initially we were parked on the top of a 3 tiered bunk reached on one side by ladder - 3 pads across. Does one want to be near the ladder - with others climbing over you - or do you wish to climb others- and then there is middle slot.... Hot and stuffy , Tam "suggested" we make an adjustment - an we eventually secured a traditional bunk. Everyone walks here so it's a sure place to meet like minded folks. We talked with a family at dinner - the husband and son were finishing the next day while the wife was pushing on to cross the alps in 20 days- 44 kms + elevation the next day.... Tammy had a good chat with a German lad. Dinner was cheese fondue - not enough - there were other choices and I should have inquired further. After dinner an elderly woman addressed the room describing the landscape and commenting on the rarity of such clear weather. Retiring to the bunks someone closed the window and by morning the room full with arrivals after dark was oppressively stuffy and disorganized.