8/14 Les Contamines to Plan du Lai

Another big day! We left about 8:20 and sharing the route still with the Tour de Mont Blanc, there were walker aplenty out already. The crisp air motivated a crisp pace and we reached Notre Dame de la Gorge in about 40 minutes of flat walking. After a look we pushed up the very steep hill - apparently an old roman road. There is a gorge crossing with views down from the bridge. Finally leaving the trees a couple of restaurant / chalets offer food and drink but we pushed on. The road leaves the trees for good and from here there are grand views Forward All Day!! We climbed past Chalet de Balme and the way steepens as elevation is unrelentingly gained.but the views back go from good to great to fantastic to amazing to sublime upon reaching Col Bonhomme @7600 ft. The last time I was here in 2006 on the TMB it was in cold rain and fog - one of the members was seriously cold and we all crowded into the small refuge here to warm her up with our body heat. What a difference today was !! We paused briefly to breath the continued on still climbing on rocky trail with beautiful green lichen. In the surround hills the green meadows are punctuated with sharp angular rock faces of schist in the form of shiny silver gray slate. We reached the Col de Croix Bonhomme and the refuge there in 5 hours of walking and stopped for food - we shared a plate of carbonara spaghetti and my energy / well being surged. We enjoyed a chat with a young couple from New York doing the TMB. Windy and chilly we left the refuge and climbed the ridge to the southwest- the GR5 leaving the TMB. As you climb further out the ridge Mont Blanc. Itself rises into view. The walk follows close to the ridge top alternating sides along the slate rock invested with profuse tiny flowers and innumerable alpine plants - while to the opposite the drop off is precipitous the whole way. Views now to the south of other glacieated peaks appear. The effect of the day was of simple euphoria walking - once again - in overwhelming beauty. Can this possibly continue as we push south? Finally there was a hard descent to the refuge Plan Du Lai still surrounded by green beauty. Another dorm but only 4 others here. Good food too.