8/29 Ceillac to Fouillouse

I'd been somewhat dreading this day because of the mileage - ~32km - close to 20 miles with a big pass as well. The lodge had a good breakfast selection which always fuels my walk and we were out the door a late close to 8:40. The sun was just entering the valley as we walked to the hill and without warmup began a steep ascent. All you can do is pace yourself to what's reasonable till your body gets into the rhythm. But you just keep moving up the switchbacks. Finally we approached the torrent feeding the waterfall and the cool moist air made the upward progress easier. Finally the steam is crossed as we entered the basin with a lake.
Deep blue with the basin walls as backdrop, breezes rippled the surface which otherwise would have been a great source of reflection hence its name Lac Mirror.
Departing the lake we started down a side trail with yellow marks quickly realizing it wasn't the GR we backtracked and found it going downhill a bit before climbing out of the basin towards a ski lift. Later the yellow marked route appeared and connected - could have used it after all!
Cresting the ski area a new basin appeared quite beautiful. Behind us though in the distance toward Briancon a massive thunderhead with black rain below dominated and occasional thunder even so far away was amazing. We had some local black clouded but they didn't do much and drifted off. But fired up, we kept moving reaching the lake and chapel at Lake Anne where my day-hikers lingered. We admired the beautiful waters of blue changing continuously with the clouds and finally sat on rocks for lunch in sight of the lake well below. After 20 minutes we continued on and began the final advent to the pass up steep narrow switchbacks which were at times quite exposed with the slope fall off. No snow but an ice axe at least would have been needed had there been. Finally having gained 3500ft the pass sits at 8850 ft and having left a quick note for our Dutch friends down we went. The way down is on crumbly slippery rock - Tammy had he'd poles out which says a lot. A bit sketchy at times till reaching the grassy basin. But exiting the basin there is a very washed our section about 20 ft of which is a bit anxiety provoking - exposed and dangerous. Right after this are some catchment pans hewn from rock - no water running. We continues down gassy slopes studded with I btw resting boulders and Marmot holes which Tammy paused to study.
Finally reaching the valley edge thre route splits . We filled the direction to La Barage. It is sketchy, narrow and exposed at the beginning the settles. Into a beautiful scenic descent with spectacular views up/ down and across the valley into other basins. It washot when we reached the road. The water at La Barge had a non controlle sign with a cup red crossed. We'd been counting on this but still had some so on we went down hill along the road but up wind and a cooling wind at that.a least 6 miles of road walking it was easy with beautiful larch trees, the river running hard and blue and dark clouds with thunder and finally rain half way down the valley. The rain was cool and refreshing. We walked on a marked section where there GR tries to go off road - really a waste of time - better on the little traveled road. The old buildings at St Antoine were photo worthy and passed it the spectacular arch bridge over the chasm at Pont du Chatelet comes into view. Passing some bunkers guarding the area eventually the bridge is crossed. There are great views of rhe river up and down valley! Following the road through a tunnel the GR departs it once again we found ourselves climbing steeply and unrelentingly. We had no energy for this but soldiered on gaining around 800 painful feet. Though my legs were not sore I felt metabolically trashed when we reached our rustic lodging. We loved the place With a spacious room and very hot showers. The meal of the night was pot roast and vegetables in huge quantity exceeding anything we'd had foronths. And do good as well with a glass of wine we were set!

8/27 Briancon to Le Chalp

Big days of walking ahead! Today 15miles. We awoke a little late but refreshed. Chilly @ 4C but cloudless skies promised warmth. So we set out winding our way out of the old city. Just beyond the gates a herdsman was tending his goats. And we spoke a few minutes with an interesting gentleman on the town council who inquired about us and our stay in the city. Outside the gates, the GR takes you almost immediately on a wooded trail down to the river and the follows it into town. We passed a huge abandoned building with windows broke out that gave a strange feel to the area. We bought some bread for our sandwiches and bread pudding for an energy snack. We then left town and in the vicinity of the train station we stayed on the road. The GR makes a strange left turn up hill goes a ways then returns to the road we'd stayed on- one of the pearls gleaned from the girls 1986 guidebook. The route goes through small residential areas and eventually climbs above the valley on gravel road with good views back of the forts. These then are lost as the climb continues onto trail then eventually back onto road a long ways eventually parallel to a stream. The walk was easy through the woods with a stream always a pleasure and cooling. We eventually reached a hamlet Chalets des Ayes where we say by a stream and soaked our feet around having lunch. Many of the structured were of old weathered wood and appeared to be summer cabins.
After lunch my legs felt like lead and it made the going now on trail hard until the energy picked up. Steep climbing now to make elevation, finally launched us above the tree line. The grassy basin had some reddish areas suggestive of fall color, but probably just dryness. There were a few yellow larches lower down which again werre likely from the dry. The col is reached up a straight sweeping path without switchbacks. At 8100 ft it wasn't the highest pass we'd crossed, but the 4675 ft we'd gained to get there wasn't trivial. We left a note for our. Dutch friends then hheaded down the other side into a large basin of brown grass. Very scenic. The route descend steeply at times on areas of rough gravel to to reach a road looking into a large basin with a artificial lake and a long wood building. We pushed down the road eventually into trees and followed it past an extensive camping area and we marveled at the rest area with showers and laundry basins. We loaded up on water. Finally out of the trees we entered the town of Brunisard, but contined 30 minutes further to the town of Le Chalp where I'd booked a nice lodging. There was an inter-sport across the street. We relaxed amidst the antiques furnishing the hotel and eventually enjoyed a nice dinner.

8/30 Fouillouse to Larche

Unfortunately the weatherman was correct and we awoke to a lite rain and cool breezy air. The walk was posted for 5 hours and so we were at the late end of breakfast. We noticed our speed walking acquaintance was there, who apparently started late the day prior and so he was caught by the weather. A jovial guy we left together with the rain falling and by the time we'd reached the end of the village it had stopped. But grey foggy clouds blew in and added a chill. I had light thermal base layer covered by pants and lite shirt and raincoat. I had my wind fleece as backup. Our speedy friend
took off and we trudged upwards into the wet basin. Then a couple people in shorts with umbrellas came down pfollowed 3 people in full rain gear. The latter said the first had found the col cold and rainy and so were heading back to take a taxi. They invited us to join them which we declined.
So on we went. We reached an old military bunker with tangles of barbed wire. Eventually we made our final cold ascent to the col Vallonet as the clouds lowered and the temperature dropped. From there we descented into a windswept basin - clouds swirled and drops pelted down but no full on rain. By moving we stayed warm. As the trail traversed to reach an old military road, we encountered a huge flock of sheep sharing the trail.so we stopped and advanced slowly as they streamed away. We reached the road and saw the shephard with dogs heading up in the fog to tend the sheep. But we started a slow steady pace and after what seemed like a long time arrived at the ruins of a military garrison eerily looming in the fog. We stopped in an intact building out of the weather for lunch. Then continued on up above the ruin to reach the col Mallemort @ close to 8400 ft. The road continues higher to reach a fortress 600 ft high. We didn't go but headed down to Larche which is visible from the col. It's a long grassy descent of 3000 ft passing another bunker 2/3s the way down. Except for the WW1 memorial, the town was completely destroyed the rebuilt. Very close to Italy. The only grocery is in the campground where I went for supplies after checking in to our hotel. The sky then opened up and it bucketed. We were very lucky to have missed this rainfall on our walk!!!